This past 2010 growing season was full of natural challenges to say the least. In addition to drought conditions, sustained high temperatures and either too much or too little rainfall, plant health care professionals were faced with the threat of the Winter Moth (Operophtera brumata). This insect whose larvae attack and feed voraciously on a large number of deciduous trees, fruit trees and flowering shrubs, has been appearing in greater numbers throughout the metro west areas as well as the greater Boston area. What can we look forward to this year, how can we spot the insect and most importantly, what can we do to combat the problem?

Courtesy of WillaPalens/Flickr

Understanding the Winter Moth life cycle is extremely important in helping to detect for the adults and also when to treat for the larvae. Adult male and female beetles will emerge in the late fall (November into December) to mate and subsequently female beetles will lay their eggs. These eggs hatch in the spring. This year temperatures have remained cooler due to the excessive snow pack and we can expect to see larvae hatch and begin their journey to feed on the inner buds of a newly developing leaf sometime in late March and into the second and third week in April. These larvae are extremely hard to spot especially when young as they tend to hide in the barks of trees or make their way into newly developed buds where the majority of the damage will occur. Only when the leaf becomes visible are you able to see the damage that has been inflicted by this menacing little pest. Entire trees can be defoliated or you can expect to see small chew holes in the newly developed leaves. Photosynthesis is disrupted, diseases are more common and if nothing is done to stop the life cycle of this pest, the health of your trees or shrubs will be negatively altered for some time.

Courtesy of Carl Brodeur/Flickr

What can we do to slow this insect or better yet eliminate it from our landscapes? The most effective way to combat the Winter Moth larvae is to spray for it in the spring before the larvae have time to reach the foliage and begin feeding. We normally split the treatments into two applications to ensure complete success. These treatments are generally done closely together and need to be scheduled in the early spring.

Please call us to sign up for Winter Moth spraying. We will continue to monitor this problem and stay on top of the most up to date research. Thanks again and remember – do not wait until the damage has been done. Be proactive and call to schedule an appointment with one of our friendly professionals and/or request an estimate if this service is not already a part of your lawn care program. GO GREEN in 2011!

There are several important steps to take to make your lawn lush and healthy.

Start with good soil:

• The soil should have a good texture
• The soil should have the right pH level (see our bulletin on Soil Testing below)
• The soil should have the proper mix of nutrients

Select a grass variety that does well in your climate but also consider:

• The water and nutrient requirements
• Resistance to pests
• Tolerance for sun or shade
• The amount of traffic the grass will have

Mow high and often:

• Keep the grass longer. When the grass is longer, there is greater leaf surface to take in more sunlight. This helps the grass grow thicker and develop a deeper root system.
• Longer grass also keeps the soil cooler helping to keep in moisture and making it more difficult for weeds to creep in.
• Most turf grasses do well when maintained at 2½ to 3½ inches.

Thirsty lawns are dry and dying lawns:

• Proper watering is the vital to success of any lawn. We recommend installing a cost-effective irrigation system to take the guesswork out of the watering process.
• Temperature, time of day, and length of watering are all important considerations in a proper watering plan.

Carry out a solid maintenance program:

• A solid maintenance program is preventative health care maintenance for lawns and plants. Organic landscape management works with nature to combat and prevent weeds, pests, and disease problems.

Whether it’s weeds or pesky mosquitoes, we have an organic alternative treatment that can help!

• “I have so many weeds” – Timing is key. To combat weed problems, we use a corn gluten based product that works by halting the root development, preventing them from becoming established. It is important to begin an organic weed control program before weeds germinate. We recommend treatment in the early spring followed by a second treatment in late summer. Treated areas can be used immediately following application.
• “Ugly brown spots are all over my lawn” – You’ve got grubs! Grub damage in a lawn appears as large, irregular areas of brown turf that can detach from the soil without much effort. Unlike other forms of turf damage such as too much or too little watering, or excessive fertilizing, grub damaged areas make the turf easy to peel away very much like rolling back a carpet. Grubs are normally out of sight and therefore out of mind but they are feeding on grass roots making their presence known only after they have done severe damage. We use a live organic product that attacks and rids lawns of grubs. Nematodes are microscopic worms that infect and kill grubs, effectively reducing the grub population in the turf. We recommend two to three treatments before grubs become a dominating destructive factor in your lawn.
• “Japanese Beetles are destroying my roses!” – Japanese beetles are a devastating pest that can feed on 300 species of plants ranging from roses to poison ivy! Japanese beetles are a devastating pest that can feed on 300 species of plants ranging from roses to poison ivy! They normally feed in groups starting at the top of the plant and working downward. Adults emerge from the ground in late May or early June. They can fly up to five mile but generally stay within a 1 to 2 mile area, making short flights to find additional feeding sources. We use an organic pest treatment that helps controls these infestations. We recommend treatment as part of our Organic Grub Control program.
• “My lawn looks tired and haggard!” – Your lawn probably needs healthy food! Our fertilizer is a blend of natural ingredients including seaweed, leaf and grass compost. We recommend applications in the spring, summer and fall.
• “My plants look lifeless!” – We use a granule bio-stimulant that promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria to help stimulate root development. It can be applied to existing and established grasses, trees, shrubs and ornamental plants. Applied in the spring and fall annually. We strongly recommend application for all newly planted or transplanted materials.

What issues are you seeing in your landscape that we can help you with?